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French-born Cesar Henry does not believe in grilling steak for his country’s best-loved culinary export, steak frites. “I find grilling [without wood] quite boring because I don’t think the flame brings much flavour,” says Henry, owner-chef of Ouest France Bistro in Mornington.
Instead, he uses the flat surface of a crepe maker to cook scotch or eye fillet in generous amounts of butter. “[The butter] gives a lot of flavour to the meat and caramelises the outside,” he says.
The butter’s not so unusual. But a crepe maker? His business started life as a creperie, so he had the equipment (known as a billig) on hand. Plus in Brittany, where he’s from, he says, “if you want a quick barbecue with mates outside, this is what you do; you use your crepe maker”. Chef Cesar Henry at Ouest France Bistro cooking a steak on his crepe pan’s flat-plate. Wayne Taylor Traditionally prepared in France using onglet (hanger steak) or bavette (flank steak), in Australia the dish is made with various cuts, although many restaurants play to the Australian preference for tenderness over flavour. Popular cuts here include eye fillet, scotch fillet and porterhouse. But long-running institution France-Soir in South Yarra is seeing more people order hanger steak, which head chef Geraud Fabre describes as “a bit more al dente, if I can make that comparison”. “But the taste is fantastic. For a meat-lover, you have to try it,” he says.
Steak frites at Ouest France Bistro Wayne Taylor Ouest France Bistro What: Choose from ultra-tender eye fillet or scotch that’s a super-sized 300g – the kitchen orders a larger steak, which forms a better crust without becoming overcooked. Go for a bright bearnaise or an off-piste blue cheese sauce. How much: $53 for eye fillet (220g), about $48 for scotch fillet (300g), both with fries. The je ne sais quoi: On Bastille Day (July 14), an accordion player will be at the restaurant and there’ll be a special of wagyu rump steak frites ($48), with meat from Margaret River Wagyu Beef.
180 Main Street, Mornington, ouestfrance.com.au Steak frites, France-Soir-style. Simon Schluter France-Soir What: Five different cuts of grass-fed O’Connor beef are on offer at France-Soir. Complete your Paris bistro fantasy by opting for the onglet (or hanger) with your choice of bearnaise, bordelaise, pepper or Normande sauce. How much: $45 for the hanger (220g; includes chips); $51 for the scotch fillet (250g; comes with chips and salad).
The je ne sais quoi: This place’s reputation is built on the patina of the room, the ’tude of its waiters and the tete-a-tete between regulars. You’re here, first and foremost, for the vibes. 11 Toorak Rd, South Yarra , france-soir.com.au Bistrot Plume What: The current special at Bistro Plume is a 300-gram tri-tip, cut from the bottom of the sirloin, sourced by leading steak supplier Gamekeepers and grilled to medium rare. Choose from roast-chicken jus, peppercorn sauce or Cafe de Paris butter to accompany. How much: $45, including hand-cut skin-on chips.
The je ne sais quoi: Roasted bone marrow is occasionally added to level up the experience. 56A Mount Pleasant Road, Belmont, bistrotplume.com.au Twelve guests can sit at the bar of upscale butcher Victor Churchill if they’d rather not cook their own steak. Chloe Dann Victor Churchill What: Only the most blue-ribbon beef crosses the threshold of this butcher shop. Its steakhouse menu, available daily, makes the most of that. The steak frites uphold the French tradition of using flank steak: grain-fed, sourced from Rangers Valley’s pure Black Angus range and cooked over charcoal.
How much: $68 for 280g steak, chips and Cafe de Paris butter; salad and other sides extra. The je ne sais quoi: Apart from eating on-farm, you can’t get much closer to the source than this. 953 High Street, Armadale, victorchurchill.com Steak frites at Bistro Gitan is made with eye fillet or porterhouse steak. Supplied Bistro Gitan
What: A 250-gram porterhouse or a 230-gram eye fillet – sourced through Australian Butchers Store from Victoria’s Southern Ranges – that’s char-grilled to your liking. How much: $50 for porterhouse or $59 for eye fillet, flanked by crispy shoestring fries and one of three sauces: peppercorn, chimichurri, or Gitan dressing specially created by the bistro founder, Jacques Reymond. The je ne sais quoi: Stellar service is part of the enduring charm of this hatted neighbourhood bistro. 52 Toorak Road West, South Yarra, bistrogitan.com.au The Recreation in Fitzroy North is a top spot for steak frites. Wayne Taylor
The Recreation What: A textural, grass-fed porterhouse with a beef marble score of four, from the Victorian Southern Ranges. It’s cooked over a mix of grey box and red gum hardwood, with lump charcoal. The bistro makes its own golden, crunchy fries with seasonal chipping potatoes from local farmer Spud Sisters. How much: $62 (with chips and garlic-and-parsley butter). The je ne sais quoi: Freshly grated horseradish from Keilor’s chef-favourite supplier Day’s Walk Farm gives the dish extra zing. 162-170 Queens Parade, Fitzroy North, the-recreation.com
The steak frites at Bar Romanee Joe Armao Bar Romanee What: On Mondays from noon, you can get a bargain price on 250g grass-fed rostbiff (rump steak) from Gippsland that’s cooked however you like on the gas-powered char-gill. On the side? A choice of mustards (seeded, Dijon, hot English) and horseradish. How much: $35, with shoestring fries, coleslaw and (usually) pepper sauce. The je ne sais quoi: A deep wine list will introduce you to lesser-seen varieties, or you can dial up the French vibes with a great burgundy. Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox. Sign up
